Planning
SAGA PowerTrack Team
October 13, 2026
Modular Kitchen Electrical Points: A Planning Guide
Plan modular kitchen electrical points from the appliance list, not from the wall. Give every fixed or heavy appliance its own point where it will stand, then decide how the countertop appliances that move around will share the counter. That second group is where a power track socket can replace a row of fixed points. Your electrician and your local wiring rules decide the circuits, cable sizes and heights.
Start with the appliance list
Electrical points are fixed before the cabinets go in, and moving one later means opening a finished backsplash. So write the list first. Walk through a normal day in the kitchen and note every appliance you own or expect to buy, where it will sit, and whether it stays plugged in.
For each one, note two things from the rating plate or the manual: the wattage and the type of plug on its cord. The wattage tells your electrician how to group the loads. The plug type decides which socket it needs, which matters more than most people expect when they plan a track socket.
Sort appliances by how they are used
Kitchen appliances fall into two groups. The first group is installed once and never moves. The second lives on the counter, comes out of a cabinet when needed, and changes every few years.
| Group | Typical appliances | How to plan the point |
|---|---|---|
| Fixed, always connected | Refrigerator, chimney, water purifier, dishwasher, built-in oven, built-in microwave | One point each, at the appliance position, reachable for service. Your electrician decides which need a dedicated circuit. |
| Fixed, heavy load | Built-in hob or induction hob, oven, water heater | Dedicated points and circuits as the appliance manual and your electrician specify. Not on a shared row of sockets. |
| Countertop, daily | Mixer grinder, kettle, toaster, coffee machine | Sockets along the working counter, close to where each is used. |
| Countertop, occasional | Hand blender, air fryer, sandwich maker, phone and tablet chargers | Spare sockets on the counter, or one movable socket shared between them. |
The first two groups are simple once the layout is frozen: the point goes where the appliance goes. The countertop groups are harder, because nobody knows today which appliance will sit where in three years.
Where the points go
- Behind or beside fixed appliances: inside the tall unit or adjacent cabinet, where the plug can be reached without pulling the appliance out. Ask your kitchen designer for the appliance drawings.
- Along the working counter: on the backsplash between the worktop and the wall cabinets, spread along the stretch where you actually prepare food.
- Away from water and heat: keep counter sockets clear of the sink and of the hob's splash and steam zone. Your electrician will advise the clearances that apply to your home.
- Island or breakfast counter: plan the supply route through the floor or the cabinet carcass before flooring and stone work are finished.
On kitchen socket height, there is no single number to copy from a guide. The usual practice is to place counter points on the backsplash, high enough to clear the appliances standing in front of them and low enough to sit below the wall cabinets. The exact height follows your cabinet drawings, your electrician's advice and local wiring rules.
Where a track socket can replace a row of points
A power track socket is a rail that is wired once. Adaptor modules, each one a socket, twist into it anywhere along its length and can be moved without tools. On a working counter it does the job of a row of fixed points, with the difference that the sockets follow the appliances. The longer explanation is in what a power track socket is.
The SAGA surface power track screws to the backsplash wall or under the wall cabinets and stands 19 mm proud of the surface. The 500 mm track holds up to 5 modules and the 1000 mm track up to 10. Its motion-activated LED strip also lights the counter below. The size guide helps you match the length to your counter run.
Each track is rated 32 A and 8,000 W in total. Individual modules are rated 13 A (3,250 W) for the S 91 and S 44, and 15 A (3,750 W) for the S 49. Countertop appliances normally fall inside those figures, but do not assume it. Check each rating plate, add up the wattage of what will run at the same time and give that figure to your electrician, who will size the circuit.
Track sockets commonly used on a kitchen counter
Check the plugs on your appliances first
Each module accepts specific plug types. The S 91 International Universal module accepts Type A, B, C and I plugs, the S 44 accepts British BS1363 (Type G) plugs and the S 49 accepts German/EU Schuko (Type F) plugs. Many kitchen appliances in India have round-pin plugs (Type D 6 A or Type M 16 A). If one of yours does, contact support before you order so we can confirm which module suits it.
Where a track socket must not go
- Not for dedicated heavy appliances. A hob, oven, dishwasher or water heater stays on its own point and circuit, as your electrician specifies.
- Not in wet zones. SAGA tracks are rated IP20, which means dry indoor use. Mount the track away from the sink and outside the hob's splash zone.
- Not flush in a worktop that gets wet. A recessed track needs a cutout of 495 × 71 × 18 mm or 995 × 71 × 18 mm and suits a dry breakfast counter or a desk-style ledge, not a surface where liquids are handled.
- Not as an extension of an old point. The track needs its own correctly protected supply, not a plug-in lead from an existing socket.
Circuits and protection to discuss with your electrician
Kitchens carry more load than any other room, so circuit planning is a job for a qualified electrician. Go to that conversation with your appliance list and ask how the heavy appliances will be separated, how the counter sockets will be grouped and what earth-leakage protection the kitchen circuits will have.
For a SAGA track specifically, the installation notes call for a dedicated circuit with a 32 A Type B/C MCB and a 30 mA RCCB upstream, because the track has no overcurrent protection of its own. They recommend 4.0 mm² copper cable for the full 32 A rating. The installation guide sets out the steps for your electrician.
A planning sequence that works
- List every appliance. Write down each appliance, its wattage and its plug type, including the ones you plan to buy.
- Mark the fixed appliances on the drawing. Place a point at each fixed appliance position using the kitchen designer's drawings.
- Mark the working counter. Identify the dry stretch of counter where small appliances will be used, clear of the sink and hob.
- Choose fixed points or a track. Decide whether that stretch gets a row of fixed sockets or one track socket with movable modules, and pick the length.
- Review with your electrician. Share the list and the drawing so circuits, cable sizes, protection devices and heights can be decided.
- Fix the plan before the backsplash. Conduits and supply points must be in place before tiles, stone and cabinets are installed.
For layout ideas specific to track sockets, see power track sockets for kitchens, and check the live price list when you budget the counter.
Frequently asked questions
How many electrical points does a modular kitchen need?
There is no fixed number. Count one point for every fixed appliance, such as the refrigerator, chimney, purifier, oven and dishwasher, then add sockets for the countertop appliances you use at the same time, plus one or two spares. A power track socket can cover the countertop group with one rail that holds up to 5 or 10 movable modules.
What is the right kitchen socket height above the counter?
Counter sockets usually sit on the backsplash between the worktop and the wall cabinets, high enough to clear the appliances in front of them. The exact height depends on your cabinet drawings and local wiring rules, so confirm it with your electrician before tiling. Keep every socket away from the sink and the hob's splash zone.
Can a track socket be used in a kitchen?
Yes, on a dry part of the counter wall. SAGA surface tracks mount on the backsplash or under wall cabinets and are rated 32 A and 8,000 W. They are IP20, so they must stay away from the sink and hob splash zone, and they need a dedicated circuit with an MCB and RCCB installed by a qualified electrician.
Can I run an induction hob or oven from a power track socket?
Plan those on their own dedicated points instead. Built-in hobs, ovens, dishwashers and water heaters are fixed, heavy loads, and your electrician will specify a separate point and circuit for each according to the appliance manual. A track socket is meant for the countertop appliances that move around, such as a mixer, kettle or toaster.
Will my Indian kitchen appliance plugs fit a power track socket?
Check each plug before buying. The S 91 module accepts Type A, B, C and I plugs, the S 44 accepts British Type G and the S 49 accepts Schuko Type F. For Indian round-pin plugs (Type D or Type M), contact support before ordering to confirm which module suits them.
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